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Day 4 The Day of the Yaylas Saturday, August 5, 2006
Submitted by Kay Novak |
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The day of the yaylas greets us with a beautiful sunrise over the mountains of the gorge. The small market across the street is stocking loaves of bread out front, and Ayder women are shopping for supplies there. A young woman, wearing her headscarf with sequins tied in the fashion worn here, opens the flap of the tent across the street and enters the hotel. She works in the breakfast room. Some people here for their summer stay live in tents, while most appear to live in their small wooden houses that rest on stone foundations. Ayder is yayla #l. After breakfast we start up the mountain to visit yayla # 2, Asagi Kavran, and yayla #3, Kavran. The hazelnut pickers, who wear baskets with a unique design so they can pick and toss over the shoulder with efficiency, precede us. We ride in minibuses. Our driver, Ahmet, lives in a fourth yayla. On our way up he shows us the beehive barrels high in the trees. Beautiful mountain greenery, wildflowers, and white water streams and falls are treats that cushion our bone-breaking ride on the narrow, rutted mountain road. The gorge walls cut by those waters look to be at least forty-five degree angles, and the lid of clear blue sky above makes it all a breathtaking place to be. No wonder the people choose to escape up here with their children and cattle each summer. We are told that this weather, a heat wave, is the exception. Clouds and rain usually prevail and provide the lush pasture for the short weeks before cold and snow return. |
Waterfall on the road to the high yayla picture by Vicki Oldberg
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At Asagi Kavran Mehmet takes us around to show us their rustic wooden houses and stables. He lives and works in Antalya, but returns to work for the two months in the summer at the yayla. Life is very basic. There are no modern conveniences except electricity from a local hydroelectric generator. Water has now been piped to houses from upstream. Pit-type toilets and wood heat used for cooking and heat at night complete the picture. Come winter all is covered beneath snow. On our way down from Kavran, at the very top of the mountain where the stay is just two weeks’ duration, we stop at Ahmet’s yayla where his wife and his Kangal Shepard dog pup greet us. A neighbor woman is out in the meadow gathering flowers for her cows, and Meli stops for a quick chat with her. People in the yaylas make cheeses as an important resource for the months ahead. On our trip down the gorge we stop again for lunch at Asagi Kavran. Wonderful food is cooked in a stifling hot tent for us. Farther down we stop at the base village (Çamlıhemşin) and shop. We also stop again at one of the old curved stone bridges where people are playing in the river on a very hot day. The tea and hazelnut bushes are amazing sites growing right up the steep mountain. Corn plants and pole bean plants are growing on every square inch of accessible soil including the shoulders of the road. Back in Rize we visit the CayKur retail outlet to purchase fine Turkish tea, and then a visit to a small textile factory where two handlooms and one power jaquard loom are in use to manufacture a fabric unique to Rize. More shopping! Cotton, silk, and hemp fabrics and articles are available that offer us lovely examples not found at home. Dinner is at the hotel. Beds welcome us—most of us are just a bit tired!
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